Devil’s Island, French Guiana, June 2026

Devil’s Island, French Guiana, June 2026

The entire following day was devoted to a trip to Devil’s Island, home to a notorious maximum-security prison. The prison was built in 1852. France used it to exile to distant Guiana primarily political prisoners. Inmates included conspirators against Napoleon, the famous Alfred Dreyfus who was falsely accused of spying for Germany, and hardened thieves and murderers.

The Salvation Islands consists of three main islands. The smallest of them, Devil’s island, was for high-profile prisoners. The largest, Royale island, housed the guards and administration, utility buildings, workshops, and the general prison. St. Joseph was for solitary confinement and punishment. It is not possible to land on Devil’s island. Visitors can tour the other two islands.

The  Salvation Islands
The Salvation Islands
The trip to the colony by boat from Kourou takes about an hour
The trip to the colony by boat from Kourou takes about an hour
This island may look like a tropical paradise while in actuality it was the prison notorious for its exceptionally harsh conditions.
This island may look like a tropical paradise while in actuality it was the prison notorious for its exceptionally harsh conditions.

Prisoners perished from tropical diseases  and cruel treatment. Only a handful managed to escape. Only a handful managed to escape. Several books were written about Devil’s Island; the most famous of them, “Papillon” by Henri Charrière, was adapted into a movie. My favorite book about a true escape story from this prison is “Damned and Damned Again” by William Willis.

Solitary cells on St. Joseph island
Solitary cells on St. Joseph island
An administrative building and the lighthouse
An administrative building and the lighthouse
It is amazing how fast nature takes over of what was abandoned by humans
It is amazing how fast nature takes over of what was abandoned by humans
Besides peacocks, we saw capibaras and monkeys on the islands
Besides peacocks, we saw capibaras and monkeys on the islands

The monkeys were a real nuisance. One of them started rummaging through our belongings when we went swimming. A man from our group stepped onto the shore and shooed the monkey away. It climbed up a palm tree and threw two coconuts at him. One of them struck the man on the shoulder. He wasn’t injured much, but had the coconut hit his head, the consequences could have been far more serious.

The monkeys were a real nuisance. One of them started rummaging through our belongings when we went swimming. A man from our group stepped onto the shore and shooed the monkey away. It climbed up a palm tree and dropped two coconuts. One of them struck our companion hard on the shoulder. He wasn't injured much, but had the coconut hit his head, the consequences could have been far more serious.

If a prisoner managed to leave the prison after serving his sentence, he was required to remain in Guyana for a period equal to the length of his original sentence before he could finally leave. In this way, France addressed the colony’s need for cheap labor. The prison operated for 100 years until 1953.

The cemetery for guards and other prison staff
The cemetery for guards and other prison staff

 

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