We spent almost the entire third day traveling back from Ghadames to Tripoli. Along the way, we made stops at a couple of historical sites, including Tarmisa, an ancient abandoned Berber village in the Nafusa Mountains. In Tripoli, we stayed overnight at the same hotel, the Cleopatra.
The following day was devoted entirely to Leptis Magna. The ancient Roman city of Leptis Magna is the very reason people come to Libya. It was founded by the Phoenicians nearly 3,000 years ago. Together with the cities of Sabratha and Oea (modern-day Tripoli), Leptis Magna formed Tripolitania which literally meant the “Land of Three Cities.” Later, Tripolitania became part of Carthage, which, as we all know, was eventually conquered by Rome. Thus, Leptis Magna became a Roman city.
Italy established control over Libya in 1911 and immediately began fortifying the coastal region in preparation for potential war conflict. At that time, Leptis Magna lay buried beneath a 10-meter layer of sand. The Italians stumbled upon it by chance in 1912. Prior to this, nothing was known about the site. They subsequently undertook the excavation of the ancient city. There was so much sand that the Italians built a dedicated railway line to the ruins in order to haul the sand away in railcars.
They excavated about 6 square kilometers and carried out partial restorations. It is believed that there is still a great deal left to be unearthed, but since the Italians departed, the excavated area has not expanded any further.
Leptis Magna is significantly larger than Pompeii, and far more monumental. It has everything a Roman city was expected to have from baths to a forum and an amphitheater.
We spent so much time there that we went without food all day, only returning to Tripoli in time for dinner. At the Fattoush restaurant, we ordered everything our hearts desired, including coffee and dessert. This feast cost us 7 dollars each.
