I took a regular bus from the airport into town; it’s much cheaper and more fun than a taxi. I walked the rest of the way to the hotel. I travel light, with a small backpack, but the heat slowed me down. Booking.com suggested Villa Florencia as a reasonably priced hotel close to the city center. I got a room on the top third floor accessible via narrow ornate cast-iron staircases. The hotel is indeed decorated in an Italian style and feels like an oasis of peace and quiet amidst the bustling city. The room is small but comfortable and air-conditioned. The shower has only a cold-water tap – so much for a warm wash; I suppose I’ll be toughening myself up.
I hurried out to get something to eat before dark. I promised my husband that once the sun went down, I would stay quietly in my room like a mouse and not wander the city’s dangerous streets. The beautiful building of Arkam Hotel caught my eye; I walked into its restaurant and ordered fettuccine.
There was no one else in the dining room but me. The head chef came over and asked if I was happy with the meal. I said I liked it out of politeness, even though the fettuccine was not particularly tasty. The chef smiled and treated me to a dessert which was excellent and I praised quite sincerely.
There was still some daylight left, and since the city center was close by, I decided to explore it.
Next to the library stood the magnificent National Palace, which had formerly served as the government seat. I didn’t know whether the palace was open to visitors, but just then, buses began pulling up to the gates. People with suitcases were getting out of them, they carried the luggage into the inner courtyard. I slipped into the palace along with them.
At first, I just wanted to see the palace interior and leave quickly before getting kicked out. Then I noticed that the people with suitcases were taking out musical instruments and changing into beautiful dance costumes, so I stayed to see what would happen next. What followed was a stunningly colorful concert. It was completely unclear who it was intended for; the only people in the courtyard were a handful of individuals who like me wandered in by chance.
The host emceed the concert introducing performing groups that came from various Latin American countries and even Europe. Their costumes were a feast for the eyes. I didn’t want to leave, even though it became quite dark. Finally, at 9.30 p.m I decided I’d had enough of a good thing and stepped outside; the concert was still going on.
The city center was crowded with people out strolling with their children. Police officers stood on every corner, wearing body armor and carrying assault rifles across their chests, with an array of weapons on their belts. When I moved away from the center, the streets grew deserted. I quickly made my way back to my hotel and went to bed delighted by the unexpectedly wonderful evening.